Pattern #5480

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• 1. Center BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
• 2. Side BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
• 3. Lower COLLAR – 1 QTY
• 4. Upper COLLAR – 1 QTY
• 5. Side FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 6. Center FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 7. Front FACING – 2 QTY
• 8. Upper welt pocket flap – 1 QTY
• 9. Patch pocket – 2 QTY
• 10. Welt pocket flap – 2 QTY
• 11. SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• 12. Back neckline FACING – 1 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
• 1. FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: front FACING, welt pocket flap, center FRONT PANEL, back neckline FACING.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the front FACING, welt pocket flap, center FRONT PANEL, and back neckline FACING.
2. Mark darts on the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Stitch and press BACK PANEL darts towards the center. Stitch the FRONT PANEL dart and trim the dart depth. Cut open the pocket opening. Stitch the side FRONT PANEL to the center FRONT PANEL and press the seam open. Stitch the pocket opening and press. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the darts.
3. Fold the upper welt pocket flap right sides together lengthwise in the middle and press. Stitch the corners of the welt pocket flap, trim excess fabric at the corners, and turn the welt pocket flap right side out. Press the finished welt pocket flap. Topstitch along the contour of the welt pocket flap 0.2 cm from the edge. Mark the position of the chest pocket. Stitch the welt pocket flap to the FRONT PANEL, turn it upwards, and topstitch the side edges of the welt pocket flap.
4. Fold the upper COLLAR with the lower COLLAR and stitch. Trim excess fabric at the corners, straighten the seams, and press the COLLAR.
5. Fold the welt pocket flap for the lower pocket lengthwise right side up in the middle and press. Mark the position of the welt pocket flap on the pocket. Cut the underlap from the main fabric. On the welt pocket flap, mark the stitching line to the pocket, measuring the width. Place the welt pocket flap on the pocket and align the marked lines. Stitch the welt pocket flap to the pocket. Place the underlap on the right side of the pocket to the marked upper line and stitch. Check the correctness of stitching the welt pocket flap and underlap from the wrong side (the stitches should be parallel and the distance between them equal to the finished width of the welt pocket flap). Cut open the pocket opening. Make slanted cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Through the opening, turn the welt pocket flap and pocket underlap inside out, straighten the edges. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Overcast the pocket underlap and secure the pocket opening. Overcast the outer contour of the patch pocket. Press the upper edge of the patch pocket and topstitch 0.5 cm from the upper edge. Press the sides of the pocket according to the pattern. Mark the position of the pocket on the FRONT PANEL and topstitch, reinforcing at the pocket corners.
6. Place the front FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Stitching is done from the FRONT PANEL side upwards to the NOTCH, which defines the end of the COLLAR attachment. Trim the seams of the upper front corners. Remove pins. Understitch the front edge FACING SEAM ALLOWANCE: in the button placket area – to the front FACING, in the lapel area – to the FRONT PANEL.
7. Stitch, overcast, and press the center BACK PANEL seam. Stitch, overcast, and press the BACK PANEL princess seams. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seams.
8. Mark and stitch the dart on the FRONT PANEL LINING. Overcast the shoulder edge of the FRONT PANEL LINING. Press the darts. Mark and overcast the bottom of the jacket on the BACK PANEL. Press the bottom of the garment to the wrong side of the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Stitch the LINING to the outer edge of the front FACING and stitch the lower edge of the FRONT PANEL with the LINING.
9. Stitch the side edges, folding the hem allowance of the BACK PANEL to the right side of the BACK PANEL, so that the FRONT PANEL is enclosed in the hem allowance of the BACK PANEL. Overcast the side edges, turn the hem allowance of the BACK PANEL to the wrong side of the BACK PANEL and press.
10. Overcast, stitch, and press open the jacket shoulder seams. Stitch the shoulder edges of the front FACING and FACING. Press the seams open and attach the upper COLLAR to the FACING neckline, and the lower COLLAR to the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL neckline. Press open the COLLAR attachment SEAM ALLOWANCES and secure them close to the seams. Secure the shoulder SEAM ALLOWANCE of the LINING to the jacket shoulder seam.
11. Overcast the SLEEVE edge. Overcast and press the lower SLEEVE edge to the wrong side. Stitch the SLEEVE seam up to the NOTCH for the slit. Fold the hem allowance to the right side of the SLEEVE and stitch the slit corners. Fold the hem allowance to the wrong side of the SLEEVE and topstitch it.
12. Set the SLEEVES into the armhole according to the NOTCHES. Overcast the setting seam. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge of the front, along the COLLAR contour, and the bottom of the jacket. Remove basting threads.
13. On the right FRONT PANEL, mark and overcast buttonholes, and on the left FRONT PANEL, sew on buttons.